The Master Sword as seen in Breath of the Wild after Zelda placed it in the pedestal in the Korok Forest! Perfect for your prop, cosplay, and display needs!
Dimensions:
Length: 9.25 in.
Width: 3.5 in.
Height: 38 in.
WARNING: The thinner and more detailed the project, the more fragile it is. Projects aren't meant for combat or heavy use. Excessive or aggressive swinging or collisions could result in permanent damage to the project. Projects are not perfect. I'm not a professional, this is just my hobby.
Check out my website for more information! If you're looking for the models I used to make this project, you can find links to them on my website!
https://lukelamirande.wixsite.com/iprintswords
I take commissions for 3D printed swords! Here's a description of my process from my website!
Like anyone, when I make a 3D printed project, I have a multi-step process. Here's a chronological list of things I do for each project so you know what you're paying for:
Model Editing:
When you send me the 3D model, more often than not I'll have to edit it so it can be printed in an optimal and efficient way. When I say editing, I don't mean I'm changing your model to look different. I want your model to look exactly how you sent it to me once it's completed. When I edit models I often: add a hole through the center of the model to make room for a metal or wooden rod, slice the model into manageable pieces that are later connected, and remove any digital artifacts that aren't intended to be printed.
2. Aquire Additional Materials:
Some projects have additional details that aren't represented well in the plastic medium. For example if you have a sword that has a leather grip around the handle, you can request a leather or fabric substitute to be wrapped around the handle instead of the leather being represented by plastic. During this step I also acquire an appropriate wooden or metal rod if needed.
3. Printing:
Once everything for the project is gathered, the print begins. For those of you that don't know, 3D printing takes a long time. I run my printer on a slightly slower speed as well to avoid potential misprints. Misprints are also the reason I don't set guaranteed delivery dates. You never know what could go wrong in the printing stage. Depending on the size of your project, your print could take a couple hours or a couple weeks to fully print.
4. Print Cleaning:
Once all of the pieces of your project are finished printing, I remove them from the print bed and begin the cleanup stage. During this time I remove any support materials your print used, and try to clip away and smooth out any imperfections that may have occurred during printing.
5. Gluing:
After the cleanup, it's time to stick all of the pieces together. The glue I use delivers a permanent bond to the plastic pieces effectively making them all one piece. If your project includes a metal or wooden rod, glue is also used to insert it. This creates a project that is quite stable and hard to snap.
6. Sanding:
Sanding a project removes most of the obvious layer lines from the print. Layer lines are tiny grooves in the plastic that are a byproduct of the printing process. Typically, unless you knew about 3D prints or how a 3D printer works, you wouldn't notice the layer lines in a project, especially after coats of primer and paint have been applied. Sanding is also a grueling and time consuming process. I often don't sand areas of a projects that are filled with small details because sanding them could effectively erase them.
7. Gap Filling:
There are almost always tiny gaps that are present between pieces of a project after they've been glued. During this step I fill them in with a putty and smooth out those edges.
8. Priming:
During this step I apply multiple coats of primer to the project to ensure the colors are uniform when I begin painting.
9. Second Sanding / Second Priming:
Sanding the project down a second time after gap filling and priming creates a smooth surface on the previously sanded areas. After this, I re-prime the project to get the ideal painting surface back. Second sanding and second priming aren't always necessary for a project to look its best.
10. Painting:
After all of the previous steps, it's time for painting! Using the reference images you provide, I do my absolute best to make the project look exactly how you want it order to look! I usually apply three or more coats of paint, and a fourth and fifth coat are designated for details, highlights, and weathering.
11. Clear Coat:
With the painting done, I add a few layers of clear coat. The clear coat can be matte or glossy depending on the intended material of the project. The clear coat ensures the paintwork doesn't easily rub away or chip if the project is handled.
12. Details:
This is the final phase of the project's construction there I add the additional materials I acquired in step two if there are any.
FAQ:
Q: Are the projects you make safe for combat?
A: Absolutely not. The projects I make are meant to be props for cosplay or display pieces. Please do not use my projects as weapons in any way. Using my projects in an unintended manner can result in severe damage to the project, property, or in the worst case scenario someone gets injured.
Q: What are your printer settings?
A: It depends on the project. I often print projects with ten percent infill to make sure they're stable, yet solid. I never go under ten percent infill, but I will go over ten percent if I think a certain piece needs more stability for whatever reason. I use 0.2mm layer heights one hundred percent of the time, and my printers are configured for PLA plastic.
Q: What kind of paints do you use?
A: I most often use three different brands of acrylic paints to make your projects look great! I use AppleBarrel, Folkart, and Decoart brand paints. I hand-paint every project which makes these three brands excellent choices.
Q: Do your projects function?
A: My projects function as PROPS and DISPLAY PIECES only. Any bladed weapon I make will not not come close to the cutting power of a real blade. These projects are meant to look good, not injure another person. If there are any rotating or articulated pieces within the model, the movement must be planned out within the model, otherwise the project you will receive will most likely be one solid piece.
Q: Do you do returns and refunds?
A: No. These projects are specifically requested by you, the buyer, and are thus made specifically for you. If a project becomes lost or damaged in the mail I'm not responsible for it.
Q: Is there a limit to how many projects I can order?
A: Not at all! Just don't expect them all to arrive at the same time.
Product code: The Rusted Master Sword from The Legend of order Zelda: Breath of the Wild, 3D Printed and Painted